Taste of Hartford at ON20

There may be no such thing as a free lunch. But there is such a thing as a discounted lunch. And that is an incredible thing when it's the prix fixe lunch offered at ON20 during this week's 2016 Taste of Hartford. It consists of three courses (starter, entree, dessert) for $30.16 at what we think is the single best restaurant in the Greater Hartford Area, located on the 20th floor of the Hartford Steam Boiler building. Even with a limited menu, Chef Jeffrey Lizotte has continued exactly where his predecessor/mentor left off - serving dishes that are as delicious as they are gorgeously plated, cooking seasonal ingredients with modern techniques and, always, taking our breath away. Every single time.

The newly renovated space exudes intimate elegance, from the slate blue and gold carpet to the dark grey ceiling tiles. Crystal sconces and chandeliers provide understated lighting which is barely needed as the wall of windows gives plenty of sunlight and a gorgeous view of the Connecticut river, city of Hartford, and the hills beyond. A platinum Greek key design and iridescent blue drapes play up the two-toned blue-gray chairs which possess a quirky detail on the back - a silver handle. Perfect for Michael, the restaurant's maitre d', a consummate gentleman whose bonhomie is part of what brings us back time and time again, to pull out the chair for a lady.

Today we started with the duck confit which was served with a black cherry tomato gastrique and tagaiassca olive shortbread. The confit was well-seasoned and tender, but one can't help but wonder how Chef got so much flavor into that gastrique, which was delightfully dark and rich. The other starter we chose was the agnolotti, perfect pasta pillows served with buttermilk braised sweet corn that seemed to have been roasted first, and a milky garden herb nage (stock). 

For entrees, we chose the broiled porgy, one of the better-eating local fish found in the Sound. This was served with lobster confit, avocado, snap peas and marinated tomato panzanella - or what we thought were perfectly cooked bread-pudding croutons. We could have eaten a whole plate of just those. Our second choice was the honey lavender glazed duck breast with a black mission fig and pickled onion tartine, with a sauce soubise, or bechamel sauce flavored with onion puree. Here was the one misstep in the entire meal, as the fat on the duck was not as fully rendered as it should have been, which made for a few chewy bites. However, the flavor was outstanding.

For dessert, the banana "split" - three scoops of ice cream (Neapolitan, naturally), with caramel, hot fudge, roasted cherry and candied walnuts topped with a dollop of freshly whipped cream - truly hit the summer spot. The chocolate araguani (Valrhona's 72% bittersweet chocolate made from rare Venezuelan cocoa beans) tart was deep and velvety smooth, as well as luxuriously garnished with flakes of gold leaf. That was served in perfect balance with a refreshing lemon verbena sorbet that we are intent upon trying to recreate at home, since we have lemon verbena in the garden. (Chef Lizotte, if you are reading this, feel free to send me that recipe).

The Taste of Hartford offers a lot of choices. In the past we've experienced some ups (incredible steaks at The Capital Grille), and some downs (churned-out chicken at the well-known upscale small local chain that we won't name here). While a typical meal at ON20 can be beyond the reach of many pockets, there is no reason not to splurge this week, when, for the experience as a whole, it must be the best deal in town. 

Goodfellas, New Haven, CT

What is there not to love about a restaurant called Goodfellas that has a continuous loop of its namesake movie on various screens throughout the bar and dining room? Regardless of the punctuation in that last line, that is certainly not a question. Because, in fact, there is much to love about Goodfellas, a dependable Italian favorite located on State Street in New Haven.

At Goodfellas you will find beloved traditional Italian dishes thoughtfully elevated with locally sourced ingredients. For instance, there's the amazing starter, Fiore di Latte, which takes prosciutto and handmade mozzarella to new levels by wrapping it in escarole and drizzling it with aged balsamic. Or the Pork Chop Milanese, at many places served as a simple lightly breaded center cut chop, here it is topped with arugula, fresh mozzarella and tomato chutney with flavorful results. The myriad pastas are fresh and cooked al dente with stunning, savory sauces. At lunch, there are gangster-inspired paninis, such as the aptly named Lucabrasi, made with white albacore tuna, onion, and Swiss or American cheese. You know. Because he "sleeps with the fishes." Bah dum ch. Anyway...

The usual lunch and dinner menus are full of such surprises, but the special Restaurant Week menu is a steal, with three courses (appetizer, entree, and dessert) offered for the wallet-friendly price of $32. And there were ample choices, as compared to other, more limited Restaurant Week menus found in the Elm City.

I (Amy) dined at Goodfellas solo last week, before heading to my 5:30 Artisan Breads class at Gateway Community College. I was thrilled that they were open, as New Haven restaurants tend to close between lunch and dinner, making it difficult to find a decent meal before class. I sat alone at the bar around 3:45, and by the time 5:00 rolled around, the bar and most of the tables in sight were filled. The bartender, Bobby, worked alone, but he handled the business without leaving a lone diner like myself feeling ignored or unimportant. While I sipped my Chianti, I watched the muted screen, supplying the curse-laced dialogue of the movie in my own head. (As Goodfellas is in my top five movies of all time, I know every line. "Now go home and get your #!@$'in shinebox!")

For dinner, I decided to do my own play on surf and turf and ordered the Oysters Rockefeller and "Chef Gennaro's signature dish" the Filet Cognac. I was served three sea-salty oysters swimming in a vaguely sweet herby Pernod-laced bechamel sauce topped with bitter spinach, sharp cheese and crunchy breadcrumbs. They were beautiful and I was transported to my first Oysters Rockefeller, from Antoine's in New Orleans, where they were invented. The Filet was composed of two perfectly peppered medallions that were sooooo tender, I had one of those "Aha!" moments about how filets are tenderloins. Duh. There was enough lobster meat topping the steak to make me feel like I was getting a bargain. The side dish, silky mashed potatoes, were seasoned only to enhance the potato flavor itself, and the entire dish was finished in a velvety Cognac cream sauce that made me wish I had a spoon. 

And yet, there was still dessert to come. Bread class was beckoning, so I asked barkeep Billy what he would choose. Without hesitation he said, "The cupcake," and I said, "Sold!" I requested it to-go and enjoyed it later that night after class. The moist chocolate cake was layered with cannoli cream and covered with a sheen of dark chocolate glaze. Luscious.

All for $32?!?! What a meal. Oh, New Haven, please bring back Restaurant Week soon. Until then, I will be content to dine at Goodfellas no matter the price. ("For us to live any other way was nuts.") 

Goodfellas Restaurant is located at 702 State Street in New Haven, CT and further information, including hours, menus, events, and more can be found on their website.

Rooster Co., Newington, CT

Rooster Co.

It's Friday afternoon and the sun is shining through the fiery autumn trees. Cozy downtown Newington is quiet but for the chirping of a massive flock of birds, the rustling of leaves on the cobblestone sidewalk and the rumble of a few cars that roll by. Most people are still at work; it's barely 4 p.m. after all. The sun is warm on my face and I sit alone at the table outside, perusing the Rooster Co. menu, waiting for Chris to join me for an early dinner.

Gold Rush

I hear the potato-potato-potato sound of the Harley before I turn my head to see Chris approach. I know which drink he'd choose and point it out to him: the "Gold Rush," made with bourbon, fresh lemon juice and housemade honey syrup. I stick with a glass of Pinot Noir (Unconditional, Willamette Valley, OR), expecting that the medium body, light tannins and juiciness will pair nicely with the chicken dish I plan to order. (I'm right.)

Clams Casino

Chris had Halloween Buffet at his school today, so he's not starving like I am. I eat a teacher's lunch at 10:30 a.m., so by 4 I can start to feel "hangry." And since I've been here longer, I know exactly what I want. I order the clams casino appetizer while Chris gets the cheese plate. My six littlenecks are plated beautifully, resting on bright green rock salt, and the color has my curiosity piqued. While the clams themselves are slightly overcooked, I love the flavors - smoky bacon and crunchy garlicky breadcrumbs, with a pinch of lemon zest adding a citrusy zing that reminds me of summer steamers. The cheese plate, made with three local(ish) cheeses (VT cheddar, NY camembert, MA bleu), comes with thin, crispy breadsticks, and pistachio honey. Each cheese is packed with such pungency, each so different from the others, it's an intriguing selection. 

Cheese Plate

Chris orders some local oysters that are served with a brightly acidic pink peppercorn mignonette. Then my "Chef's Plate" of chicken arrives and I can't wait to dig in. It looks and smells like Sunday dinner, only a bit fancier - 1/2 rotisserie chicken, chicken leg confit (served on bruschetta), chicken pate (that's for Chris), and cracklin' (that's all mine). These are accompanied by a dollop of something akin to ginger-apple marmalade and a warm, crusty roll. The rotisserie is served with a choice of sauces, and the server suggests the walnut herb. Like nearly everyone on the planet, I love herbs with chicken, and this olive-oil based dipping sauce is definitely something I will attempt at home. The chicken itself is moist and juicy and the cracklin' shatters in my mouth. God, I love crispy chicken skin!

Chef's Plate

I'm so focused on my plate that it takes me some time to notice that the sun is barely peeking through the tree branches now, and without it, I'm getting chilly. The traffic will be bad if we wait much longer before we leave, so I ask for a box (they are biodegradable!) to take home what little is left of my platter. I'll heat it up for lunch tomorrow, I think, since Chris won't be home. I hope that the skin on the drumstick and that last cracklin' will crisp up in the broiler. (They do.) We pay the check, thank the server, and promise to return. For comfort food this interesting that's also happens to be made with local ingredients, who wouldn't?

Oysters

Rooster Co. is located at 1076 Main Street, Newington, CT. They serve lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, along with daily specials and a kids' menu. News, events, menus, and recipes can be found on their website: http://www.roostercompany.net/. 

Cozy Downtown Newington

(View from Rooster Co.)

An Evening in Barcelona (New Haven, That Is)

Barcelona's Wine Wall

The Spanish word tapar, meaning “to cover,” is the derivation for that country’s most famous style of eating -- small dishes called “tapas.” These snacks originated in the taverns of Spain, where slices of bread were topped with cheese and meat, and placed on top of patrons’ drinks to protect them from fruit flies. Surely it must have helped that many Spanish cheeses and meats were then, and still are, particularly salty, stimulating thirst. Thus it seems that tapas have always been not only protective but also profitable.

Chorizo Pintxo

While modern-day Connecticut taverns are a far cry from the taverns of old Spain, Barcelona Restaurant and Wine Bar in New Haven is serving an assortment of tapas inspired by its namesake city. The Temple Street location, one among the small chain of ten, is easy to miss. There is no sign for the restaurant. But it is there, located right next to the Omni New Haven hotel. Look for the sturdy wooden door and wine-lined window-wall and you will be in the right spot.

Ham and Chicken Croquettes

The decor is more industrial Manhattan than coastal Mediterranean, dark and noisy with fittings and fixtures made of glass and steel. A recent early-evening crowd included business folk enjoying happy hour in the cavernous bar as well as couples and parties of four feasting in the only slightly more intimate dining room.

Brussels Sprouts

Speaking of happy hour, this may be the best reason to visit Barcelona. Recent offerings included $2 and $3 tapas, $4 sangrias, $5 wines (including some uncommon Spanish and Portuguese choices) and $5 cocktails. The roasted almonds ($2) were sweet and soft, moist with oil and perfectly salted. Another perfectly seasoned snack was the chorizo pintxos ($2), spicy grilled sausage served on a toothpick (pintxo being the Basque dialect’s version of the Spanish pincho, meaning “pierced”), topped with a zesty green dollop of herbs and oil. The daily bocadillo, or sandwich ($3), was brimming with tender roast pork and red peppers. It was served on crusty bread, and was among the best bites of the evening. The only disappointment here was the pan con tomate ($2), toasted bread with a roasted tomato spread, which was completely over salted.  

Calamari

The regular menu is divided into three sections: meats and cheeses ($6.50 for one, $17.50 for three), tapas (ranging from $3.50 to $10.50) and main dishes ($10.50 to $16.50). Some dishes seem out of place, more French- or Italian-inspired than Spanish, such as the country pâté or the sauteed broccoli rabe. For those unfamiliar with Spanish cuisine, the menu can be hard to navigate. Some things are explained well, such as “albondigas, meatballs in tomato sauce.” However, many are not, for example “boquerones, parsley, olive oil.” For the brave and trusting, there’s a specially-priced tapas tasting which is nice for larger parties like ours was.

Potato Tortilla

However, amidst those tasting items were seasoning issues similar to the happy hour bites mentioned above. Some dishes were unappetizingly salty and others were completely bland. The ham and chicken croquettes were creamy on the inside and crunchy on the outside, but otherwise did not live up to the server’s claim that they are called “crack-ettes” by the staff. (No one in our party found them addictive.) The potato tortilla, a mainstay on any tapas menu, tasted too much of sweet onion and not much of anything else. The seasoning on the calamari was so lost all that was left was texture; even the peach-colored sauce it came with tasted bland. My hopes rested on the best-sounding menu item of the bunch: gambas al ajillo - described simply as “shrimp, garlic, sherry, hot pepper.” Unfortunately, all hope was lost as the delicately sweet shrimp were overpowered by the chef’s enthusiastic pour of smoky sherry. There was no spice to speak of.

Churros

We should have been too stuffed for dessert, but this is another great thing about tapas-style dining - the opportunity to taste many things without feeling the fullness of courses. The churros were exquisite, if such a thing can be said about carnival fare. The hot crisp exterior was a superb contrast to the soft, doughy inside. As for the spiced dark chocolate dipping sauce that accompanied it? I could gladly have eaten it with a spoon, and so the somewhat uneven evening ended on a high note.

Taste of Manchester: Lucky Taco

As part of the Taste of Manchester 2015 Marketing Committee, Amy has volunteered to write short features on the participating restaurants and share them via our blog here.This year's Taste of Manchester will be held on Tuesday, May 12th from 5:30 to 9 p.m. See the TOM webpage, Facebook page, or Twitter @TastyTownCT (#TOMCT2015) for more information. 

If you are a Connecticut taco fan, you’re undoubtedly familiar with Flaco, the Lucky Taco truck, which rambles around Bushnell Park on weekday afternoons. But if you’re not free to chase food trucks in the afternoon, it’s no longer a problem. Lucky Taco Cantina and Tap Room is now open on Main Street in Manchester. And they are participating in their first Taste of Manchester this year. Taco lovers rejoice!

What's on tap today?

The space, for a long time a local breakfast joint, is narrow and long, and is separated into two parts - restaurant and bar. The bar is dimly lit, as a bar should be, with a few high-top tables perfect for snacking or having a libation while waiting for a booth. There’s a full bar, yes, but we suggest indulging in something different. Lucky Taco carries over a dozen different tequilas (including some house-made tequila infusions), and makes margaritas with Connecticut’s own Ripe fresh juices and fresh fruit purees. They also have a wide variety of local and craft beers on tap.

Infusions

The restaurant is bright and cheery, evoking thoughts of warm Southern weather. Booths line one wall; a counter and the kitchen lines the other. Lucky Taco specializes in what they call “Tex-Mex comfort food infused with other worldly delights.”  As far as “Tex-Mex” goes, the menu offers a few of the standard Mexican-style dishes, particularly among the appetizers (nachos and quesadillas), salads (taco salad), and soups (chicken tortilla). But the worldly delights do entice, particularly with the inventive taco and burrito options. There are 14 different types of tacos and 15 different styles of burritos at Lucky Taco, so you’re sure to find one that tickles you. 

Lucky Nachos

Portabella Fajita Taco

We found the menu section called "Tacos Around the World" to be particularly intriguing. Here you'll find global favorites like Kung Pao Chicken, Island Jerk Pork, Thai Chicken and Chorizo, all stuffed, taco-style, into flour or corn tortillas. There are plenty of vegetarian options, and even breakfast tacos on their breakfast menu.

Island Jerk Pork Taco (with Mango Pico de Gallo)

Black Bean, Tomato and Cheese Burrito

Daily dessert specials vary, but this silky flan, smothered in a light caramel sauce, was a crowd-pleaser. All Lucky Taco menus can be found on their website. They even cater!

Flan

Come sample Lucky Taco's Tex-Mex fusion fare at The Taste of Manchester 2015. Then visit them at 829 Main Street in Manchester. They are open Tuesday-Wednesday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday and Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (Closed Mondays). Their phone number is 860-432-2274. 

UPDATE: CONGRATS TO LUCKY TACO FOR BEING CT NOW'S BEST BURRITO OF 2015!

Goong Asian Restaurant, East Hartford, CT

It was Presidents' Day, or Washington's Birthday, or whatever we are supposed to be calling it these days. And that means no school! It was also only about 30 degrees out, so the two of us took advantage of the opportunity to warm up with a fantastic lunch of Korean food at Goong Asian Restaurant in East Hartford, CT. It is easy to drive by and miss it, as it is (somewhat depressingly) located in a mostly abandoned strip mall on Silver Lane. However, there are plenty of upsides to that: it is located just minutes off I-84; there is ample free parking; there is an Asian market nearby in case you want to recreate a dish or two; and, most importantly, there is no other authentic, Korean-specific restaurant in the Greater Hartford area. 

And did we mention, it's fantastic. Truly good food, and plenty of it. Two cordial and attentive servers shared the task of waiting on the whole floor, about eight tables (not including the private dining rooms), most of which were occupied during our time there. The table was neatly set (Amy loved the long spoons with the fancy covers!) and we were immediately given a teapot filled with a steaming, light brown brew that had beautiful notes of toasted rice. The cups were a welcome handful for two winter-weary people such as ourselves.

We were pretty hungry and ordered a large plate of steamed pork and beef dumplings (Mool Mandoo) to start. Before they arrived, we were served our complimentary kimchi, or traditional variety of pickled and marinated vegetables. Ours included (clockwise, starting at top left): black beans, cucumbers, bean sprouts, lettuce, cabbage,and potatoes, as well as a bowl of miso soup for each of us. Then our dumplings arrived, presented on a plate lined with a ladle-full of the steam water and accompanied by a side of dipping sauce. The dumplings were large, perfectly steamed, and very much filled with a wonderful mingling of meat, garlic, ginger and scallions. And they were gone in minutes.

The dumplings and the kimchi alone could have sufficed for lunch, but we soldiered on, wanting to taste more of what Goong had to offer. We stuck with the more well-known, traditional Korean dishes, ordering from the lunch special menu which offered items at a lower price but seemed to be lacking nothing else. Amy got the BulGoGhi Dup-Bab, sweetly marinated strips of Korean barbecued beef served with steamed rice. Although she wished for more of a char on the meat, the tenderloin strips were exceptionally tender and the flavor was outstanding. We're sure she'll be ordering that again. Chris wanted to see if our own version of Bibimbap was as good as we thought it was and ordered Goong's DolSoht version. It arrived in a sizzling stone hot pot filled to the brim with beef, vegetables, and rice, all seasoned with hot pepper paste and topped with a sunny-side up egg. Ours was good, but now that we've discovered Goong, we probably won't be making it again any time soon (if ever!). The hot pot crisped the rice nicely, creating a wonderful textural balance to the creamy egg yolk, cooked veggies and spicy beef. Talk about comfort food - hearty, soulful and so very satisfying.

As we finished, the server brought us orange slices and  to-go boxes and we were happy to get to nosh on the dishes later on that evening. We were also so happy to have finally visited Goong, which has been on our to-do list for a while. It was worth the wait but we won't wait long until next time. Goong is located at 798 Silver Lane in East Hartford, is open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday. 

The Hidden Still, Ellington, CT

Located in a blink-and-you'll-miss-it plaza in the blink-and-you'll-miss-it town of Ellington in Northeast Connecticut is CT's hottest new bar and grill - The Hidden Still. First thing we need to tell you is: don't blink! And definitely do not miss it!

Billing themselves as CT's first restaurant and moonshine bar, The Hidden Still boasts over ten brands of moonshine from around the country, including CT's own Onyx, as well as a host of delicious, unique twists on pub food favorites. We first met some staff from The Hidden Still at Onyx's Gatsby Ball back in October, when they were competing in the Onyx 111 Infusion Challenge. Their Fire Roasted Pear and Sage Infusion, served with a splash of white cranberry juice, while not a challenge winner, was one of our faves, and convinced us we needed to experience The Hidden Still as soon as we could.

That opportunity came a few weeks later, when we had finished proctoring the PSATs at Amy's school and we were starving. The first place we thought of was The Hidden Still, which (huzzah!) happens to be right down the road from the school. We loved the variety we found on the menu, with its many "Bites" sized, and priced accordingly, at "Small," "Bigger" and "Biggest," along with a few salads, and a sandwich "Creation Station." We decided to make a meal out of a few of the small/big bites, and (thankfully!) save ourselves a little room for dessert. 

To start, we absolutely had to try the "Grilled Mac & Cheese," especially since it is inspired by the locally legendary Shady Glen Fried Cheeseburger. Tastes just like it, too, with its creamy mac-n-cheese center wedged between slices of grilled American. Ooh, that's the kind of foodstuff you obsess about forever after, and Amy certainly can't wait to sink her teeth into it again soon. Bonus points? This unique dish is a mere $6, and washes down very nicely with the (dangerously yummy) raspberry moonshine infusion cocktail.

With those years living down South always in the back of her mind, for her second course, Amy happily opted for the "Chicken and Waffles" - a generously portioned "Small Bite" choice coming in at only $7 and consisting of three open-faced "sliders" of Belgian waffle topped with crispy fried chicken and drizzled with maple syrup. 

Chris, as he often does, went for a healthier choice, by way of the fish tacos. Another generous portion at a reasonable price, with three tacos at $9 made from fried cod and topped with pico de gallo, avocado and a fresh and zingy cilantro lime cream sauce.

Yes, we went ahead and ordered dessert. After all, we surely needed to experience everything we could, and we were having a blast chatting with the amiable barkeep and the handful of other patrons seated nearby. Who, as we did, made quite a fuss over the cheekily named "Fudgin' Nutty Brownie," perhaps the fudgiest we've ever had, topped with homemade caramel, fresh whipped cream (because yes, we can tell the difference), and fried candied nuts.  

We were extremely full when we left, and we know, in our minds anyway, that this is not the kind of eating we should do very often. Nonetheless, we will be back again and again, and hope that you, too, will check it out. This is local at its best, the type of place that should be supported well and visited often. The Hidden Still offers daily specials, including a Friday Happy Hour, and Full Moon Parties. And there is more to drink than moonshine (although yes, there is a still!). So convince someone to be your designated driver and get to Route 83 in Ellington (15 minutes off either I-84 or I-91) to experience CT's first, and in our opinion, best, moonshine bar and restaurant.