Barcelona's Wine Wall
The Spanish word tapar, meaning “to cover,” is the
derivation for that country’s most famous style of eating -- small dishes
called “tapas.” These snacks originated in the taverns of Spain, where slices
of bread were topped with cheese and meat, and placed on top of patrons’ drinks
to protect them from fruit flies. Surely it must have helped that many Spanish
cheeses and meats were then, and still are, particularly salty, stimulating
thirst. Thus it seems that tapas have always been not only protective but also
profitable.
Chorizo Pintxo
While modern-day Connecticut taverns are a far cry from the
taverns of old Spain, Barcelona Restaurant and Wine Bar in New Haven is serving
an assortment of tapas inspired by its namesake city. The Temple Street
location, one among the small chain of ten, is easy to miss. There is no sign
for the restaurant. But it is there, located right next to the Omni New Haven
hotel. Look for the sturdy wooden door and wine-lined window-wall and you will
be in the right spot.
Ham and Chicken Croquettes
The decor is more industrial Manhattan than coastal
Mediterranean, dark and noisy with fittings and fixtures made of glass and
steel. A recent early-evening crowd included business folk enjoying happy hour
in the cavernous bar as well as couples and parties of four feasting in the
only slightly more intimate dining room.
Brussels Sprouts
Speaking of happy hour, this may be the best reason to visit
Barcelona. Recent offerings included $2 and $3 tapas, $4 sangrias, $5 wines
(including some uncommon Spanish and Portuguese choices) and $5 cocktails. The
roasted almonds ($2) were sweet and soft, moist with oil and perfectly salted.
Another perfectly seasoned snack was the chorizo pintxos ($2), spicy
grilled sausage served on a toothpick (pintxo being the Basque dialect’s
version of the Spanish pincho, meaning “pierced”), topped with a zesty
green dollop of herbs and oil. The daily bocadillo, or sandwich ($3), was
brimming with tender roast pork and red peppers. It was served on crusty bread,
and was among the best bites of the evening. The only disappointment here was
the pan con tomate ($2), toasted bread with a roasted tomato
spread, which was completely over salted.
Calamari
The regular menu is divided into three sections: meats and
cheeses ($6.50 for one, $17.50 for three), tapas (ranging from $3.50 to $10.50)
and main dishes ($10.50 to $16.50). Some dishes seem out of place, more French-
or Italian-inspired than Spanish, such as the country pâté or the sauteed broccoli rabe. For those unfamiliar with
Spanish cuisine, the menu can be hard to navigate. Some things are explained
well, such as “albondigas, meatballs in tomato sauce.” However, many are
not, for example “boquerones, parsley, olive oil.” For the brave and
trusting, there’s a specially-priced tapas tasting which is nice for larger
parties like ours was.
Potato Tortilla
However, amidst those tasting items were seasoning issues
similar to the happy hour bites mentioned above. Some dishes were unappetizingly
salty and others were completely bland. The ham and chicken croquettes were
creamy on the inside and crunchy on the outside, but otherwise did not live up
to the server’s claim that they are called “crack-ettes” by the staff. (No one
in our party found them addictive.) The potato tortilla, a mainstay on any
tapas menu, tasted too much of sweet onion and not much of anything else. The
seasoning on the calamari was so lost all that was left was texture; even the
peach-colored sauce it came with tasted bland. My hopes rested on the
best-sounding menu item of the bunch: gambas al ajillo - described
simply as “shrimp, garlic, sherry, hot pepper.” Unfortunately, all hope was
lost as the delicately sweet shrimp were overpowered by the chef’s enthusiastic
pour of smoky sherry. There was no spice to speak of.
Churros
We should have been too stuffed for dessert, but this is
another great thing about tapas-style dining - the opportunity to taste many
things without feeling the fullness of courses. The churros were exquisite, if such a thing can be said about carnival
fare. The hot crisp exterior was a superb contrast to the soft, doughy inside.
As for the spiced dark chocolate dipping sauce that accompanied it? I could
gladly have eaten it with a spoon, and so the somewhat uneven evening ended on
a high note.
